We could have ran a traditional dual battery setup like we had in our previous RVs, adding an additional battery that is charged separately from our vehicle’s AGM lead acid starting battery. We are using one in our new overland truck build, and love it - more on this below. **UPDATE 2022: Since this article was originally published in 2019, there have been incredible advancements in lithium battery technology and there are now lithium dual-purpose starting/deep cycle batteries on the market that can be a viable alternative to dual battery systems, easily powering a 12v camping fridge, vent fan, etc. If we didn't need a fridge and a vent fan we could have gotten by using our vehicle’s existing lead acid starting battery and 12v electrical system, charging our devices from the factory 12v outlets, and forgone a dual battery system altogether. And we’re sure it is for you as well! So now that you know your power needs, you can assess your dual battery system budget based on these needs. The more devices you bring camping, the more power you’ll need.Īnd the more power you need, the more expensive your dual battery setup will become.Ĭost is an important factor in all our decisions. You may require more or less power than our own personal dual battery system depending on how many devices you need to power and how much you use those devices while camping. Watt Need = hrs of usage per day x amps per hr drawn by the device x voltsĬheck out Part 2 of our Camping Power Series for a more detailed explanation of how to calculate your camping power needs, to help estimate the type of dual battery setup you’ll need (it includes a free downloadable camping power needs calculator). Then you will need to determine the power consumption (watt usage) of each of those devices from a day-to-day perspective based on your usage - BEFORE you can make an informed choice on a camping power supply or a dual battery system that’s right for you - especially if you’re planning to camp off-grid for any length of time.Ī watt meter* - which is a device that measures power usage/draw - is very handy for determining the power consumption of your devices, OR you can look at the device’s power supply label and use the below formula to get a fairly decent idea: Next you’ll want to narrow down all the electrical devices you may need to power while camping or traveling using a dual battery system.įor us that list looked fairly simple at first glance:Ĭharging Mobile Devices (2 cell phones, and a laptop) A professional should always be consulted when dealing with any electrical system***Īssess Your Needs For a Dual Battery Setupįirst, if you’re completely new to electrical systems, start by checking out Part 1 of our Camping Power Series for a straight-forward explanation of basic electrical terms and principles. The information provided in this post is bore solely from our personal experience and opinion. ***DISCLAIMER: We are NOT professional electricians. In this post we’re going to walk you through our dual battery system decision process, the camping power supply options available, and how you can integrate a solar generator into your dual battery setup to meet your camping power needs. Especially with our plans of working remotely while off grid. Isn't that controlled by the circuit board?ĭo I really need to spend almost $700 for a relay? Please help.When we decided to turn the truck into an overland adventure vehicle, one of the most challenging elements we had to consider was a reliable way to meet our power needs while camping. Don't they all do the same thing? Power Gear says that the relay is activated whenever the current goes below 13.3V. There are other 200A relays on the market for RVs ranging from $50 to $200. A new relay from Power Gear costs $680!!!. They agreed it was probably a relay issue, not the circuit board. So I have had folks tell me I need a new relay. There is a harness going to the circuit board, and when I disconnect that, the relay opens (or closes), and I then get 12.9V across both terminals, but then 15 seconds later, the relay again closes (opens?) and the 6.9V comes back to the s\2nd terminal. after 15 seconds, the relay shuts (or opens) and I get 12.9v at one relay, but only 6.9V on the other terminal. With the engine off, I measure 12.9V across both terminals of the relay. Earlier this year I replaced the circuit board ($455) because there was some corrosion, but the problem is back. ![]() My house batteries will charge on shore power and with the generator, but not from engine power. That year they used a Power Gear battery control center.
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